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The complexion

 

This foreword is in both sections (complexion/eyes) because it is important to read it, whether you do your eyes or your complexion first.

 

Before doing magic, you have to learn the spells! So I give you some important explanations before wreaking havoc. 

 

  • First thing to know is that the steps below are not all mandatory and especially the order can change according to your tastes and according to the products used: For a question of practicality I placed in the order that I I usually follow. But don't worry, I'll provide the necessary details. 

 

  • Then an important concept to know to understand how to combine your makeup products, and which in my opinion can be applied more widely in life in many areas. There is a balance between liquid/creamy products and dry products such as powder. This balance is important to respect to obtain a certain resistance. This is as much the case for the production of beauty products which generally have pigments (responsible for the color) mixed with binding agents (responsible for the consistency of the product) and to take a more general example: that of concrete which embodies the resistance is pretty good for my taste: there are dry products such as sand and cement to which a liquid product, water, is added. 

 

  • Now that we have talked about the composition we can talk about the mixture, indeed there is an order to ensure good cohesion between the products. Powder products should always be placed on top of liquid products (with the exception of the setting spray). Indeed the application of a powdered product on a liquid will come to solidify it and thus fix it to the lower layers. On the other hand, adding a liquid product to a proudreu product (again except the fixing spray) does not allow a good uniform application of the liquid product which in addition is generally tinted… so yes, we will see the disaster. Not to mention the fact that the products are supposed to be worked (degraded ect) and working with porridge is complicated.

 

(Small clarification for the curious: How is the fixing spray an exception? Because it was simply designed for that:

- it dries quickly unlike foundation 

- it is not tinted, yes it can be glittery but it will be very difficult to see a heterogeneous application except in case of abuse but in any case you have to want it...

-it's a spray so it will spread evenly (if you know how to use a spray correctly))

  

In reality it's like varnishing a canvas, yes you are a real work of art!

 

  • For brushes in general, the more flexible the brush, whether due to the type of hair (synthetic or natural) or due to the length (the longer the hairs, the more flexible the brush), the more the application will be light and therefore   more natural.

 

  • The products presented are to my knowledge and to my taste the best in their category, moreover I have tried to refer as much as possible to Sephora since it is a well-established brand so it will be easy for you to access the products. The presentation of the brushes is more to have a visual of what I advised you than to buy this brush precisely. Zoeva, Nyx and Sephora collection are sure values with a good value for money.

 

  • Once again, make-up is an art, so I'm just giving you advice, but it's up to you to do what you want with it; and to express your opinion on the blog section.

1. Prepare your skin

 

Make-up can attack your skin and therefore give you irritation or even pimples when using comedogenic products. This is why it is essential to prepare and protect it before applying make-up. First thing to do is to moisturize it with the care that suits you (see care section). Apply your hydration with your well-washed hands of course, it is more effective since the sponge or the brush risks absorbing the care. The second preparatory step that must be completed before starting your make-up is that of sun protection. And yes, even on a cloudy day the sun reaches our skin. Far too many misinformed people overlook the importance of sun protection. To give you a very brief summary, the sun emits a whole spectrum of light. Among this spectrum there is what is called “ultra-violet”. The latter have a rather short wavelength and therefore very aggressive. Among these ultraviolet rays there are three types of waves having respectively a small, medium and short length: UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC is completely blocked by the ozone layer. UVB rays, on the other hand, have a short and aggressive length that burns our epidermis (superficial layer of the skin) and therefore creates sunburn. Finally, UVA rays which have a longer wavelength are perhaps less aggressive than UVB rays but are just as dangerous because they penetrate your dermis (the deepest layer of the skin) and alter the structure of your collagen and your elastin, which are proteins useful for the proper functioning of the regeneration of your skin. So too much exposure can cause you accelerated aging or even skin cancer. You simply have to adapt the SPF of your sunscreen. Namely that an SPF 20 blocks about 92% of UVB rays, an SPF 30 blocks 95% and an SPF 50 will block 98% . which is called a base. This product will have the function of creating a barrier between your delicate skin and the make-up. It is often added the role of erasing the pores of your skin and in particular   a role of matifying or on the contrary providing light according to your tastes. There are sticks, creams or even sprays. Some primers are tinted, but unlike foundation, you don't have to find the perfect shade. They are generally available in three shades: light, medium and matte skin.

benefit primer_edited.png

Purchasable at the price of 14.00€ by clicking on the photo or the title of the product

benefit primer_edited.png

Purchasable at the price of 14.00€ by clicking on the photo or the title of the product

byterry_edited.png

Purchasable at the price of 72.00 € by clicking on the photo or the title of the product

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  • Milk Makeup  “Blur stick”

  https://www.sephora.fr/p/blur-stick-mini---base-teint-en-stick-487092.html

Can be purchased at Sephora for €12 

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  • Mac cosmetics  Prep+PrimeFix+

https://www.maccosmetics.fr/product/14778/32212/produits/franchises/prep-prime/prep-prime-fix#/shade/Original

Purchasable at Mac cosmetics at the price of 23€

The application of the base can be done   always with your very clean mimine or with a sponge/dyed type brush. It is only necessary to check that the application is uniform.

 

A little apart in this category we can store BB creams which are generally tinted creams. They therefore have the advantage of providing skin care but also of fulfilling the role of a foundation. However, these creams generally have light or at most medium coverage. They can therefore replace, depending on the cc cream, hydration, sun protection, base and foundation.

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  • Erborian “BB cream with giseng”

https://fr.erborian.com/bb-cream-au-ginseng-EA101Z12CP05AEGOA02A.html

Purchasable at Erborian at the price of 38€90

I advise you to read the foundation part to find your shade and also to know how to apply it well.

 

2. Concealer

At first glance these palettes can be scary, green? No thanks I'm not Fiona from Shrek! But in reality you will quickly become friends and it will make you a real wizard of oz, the perfect complexion will no longer hold any secrets for you! A bit of science! do you know the color wheel? For the stunned it's this:

cercle chromatique.png

There is a fairly simple principle that we use in art: to neutralize a color you have to mix it with an opposite color in the chromatic circle so:  

  • For the red buttons we put green

  • For purple circles we put peach

  • For dark circles that are rather red, we put purple which will also bring light.

It provides undeniable coverage. However, this step can be skipped if you want a very natural result because this high coverage will be seen as a beacon in the night if you do not unify your complexion with a covering foundation.

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  • Sephora collection "essential complexion palette"

https://www.sephora.fr/p/palette-de-teint-indispensable---palette-de-cremes-correctrices-visage-363215.html

Purchasable at S ephora for €14 99 

Also available in liquid form

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  • Sephora "color corrector" collection

https://www.sephora.fr/p/correcteur-couleur---correction-ciblee--fini-naturel-P3622019.html

Purchasable at Sephora at the price of 13€ 99

I wonder when the inclusiveness of this product for matte skin do not hesitate to give me a feedback!

Also, some people use lipstick as a concealer. Indeed, the lipstick has a creamy and covering texture which corresponds to that of the correctors. Its tint gives you a more rosy complexion by neutralizing all your bluish imperfections. However, I wonder about the formulation of the product which is rather greasy. It can therefore represent a danger if you spread it on a type of skin for which it is not intended.

I recommend a flat brush for the application since the product is very creamy a brush too full or at least with a hair

  too soft would not fit.

 

3. Foundation (be careful, some blushes, highlighters, etc. apply before)

 

First important thing A FOUNDATION IS NEITHER A BRONZER NOR A SELF-TANNER. These last two were invented for this purpose so please leave their use to them. As you will have understood I hope, it is therefore a question of finding the right shade but not only… have you ever had to deal with a foundation that came out yellow? It's simply because there are undertones to foundations. They are divided rather logically into three categories: cold undertones (rather pink-violet), warm undertones (yellow) and finally neutral undertones (between these last two)

 

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This image is from this link:

https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/25755029107854569/sent/?invite_code=b71f64286ff64dac9d2696de4b5b3def&sender=215680407063027472&sfo=1

There are two main formats of foundation: powders and liquid foundations.

the choice is:

 

  • Your skin type (oily, combination, dry). In fact, we recommend more powder foundations for oily skin, which also act as a mattifying and fixing powder and, conversely, we recommend liquid foundations for dry skin so as not to dry out the skin more. In reality, these defects are easily circumvented since in the case of oily skin using a liquid foundation, the use of a mattifying base and a mattifying powder solves the problem. 

  • Your use: touch-ups, etc. A compact powder foundation is easier to carry than all the artillery of a sponge, a bottle of foundation and a mattifying powder.

  • Of course for both formats you will find any type of coverage, even if for certain categories (luminous foundation) it will be more difficult to find high coverage. In reality the coverage will anyway vary depending on your work (number of coats and applicator). 

 

As for the powder foundation, the advantage is that it is two in one since you don't need a fixing powder afterwards, yes it is already one! But the defect of this advantage is that it will therefore necessarily be mast, we can forget the light.

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  • L'Oréal "Infallible 24h Powder"

https://www.loreal-paris.fr/maquillage/teint/poudre/infaillible-24h-poudre

Purchasable at l'Oréal at the price of 17€90

The powder foundation is applied with a brush that is generally rather round and more or less provided and flexible depending on the desired coverage (the more flexible it is, the less it covers). 

Capture d’écran 2022-11-07 à 22.55.25.png
  • Black up “powder foundation brush”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau-fond-de-teint-poudre-373753.html  

Available at Sephora for €49.90

If you are looking for very high coverage, we would rather recommend this one (very dense and very rigid…)

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  • Zoeva “104 buffer”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/104-buffer---pinceau-fond-de-teint-342330.html

Available at Sephora for €18

On the other hand, with liquid foundations, two choices are available to us: matte or luminous. 

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  • Dior “forever undercover

https://www.sephora.fr/p/diorskin-forever-undercover-P3197006.html

Available at Sephora for €48 

Of course these last two can vary but this will influence the coverage as said above. As for the application, we generally recommend a beauty blender type sponge, moistened of course, otherwise it will absorb your foundation, hurt you and give a less natural result. It provides great coverage which remains quite natural and is very easy to use. Are you a fan of brushes? Don't worry   you can also use a flat brush like this for a natural effect

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  •  Sephora “foundation brush 01” collection

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau-fond-de-teint-01---pinceau-teint-vegan*-441807.html

Buyable at Sephora 12€99

Or this one for more coverage:  

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  • Zoeva “104 buffer”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/104-buffer---pinceau-fond-de-teint-342330.html​

Available at Sephora for €18

Yes finding your perfect foundation (shade, undertone, format, coverage and finish) is as hard as looking for a needle in a haystack but don't give up you will find the shoes that fit your feet, the marks are more and more inclusive level of tints and undertones.

You can always modulate your foundation by mixing your powder or liquid with other products like L. A girl's pro.color. In this case you will change the shade of your foundation to obtain a cooler undertone. But there are other mixtures to modify the properties of your foundation such as its texture or its benefits.
 

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  • LA Girl  “PRO.color”

https://www.lagirlusa.com/products/pro-color-foundation-mixing-pigment

Purchasable at LA Girl for $10

However, I am skeptical about modifying marketed products because they often have very complex formulations. It would therefore be necessary to be a chemist to ensure that the mixtures are correct and will neither disturb the effectiveness of the product nor create dangerous chemical reactions during application.

 

4. Concealer

 

Concealer is for dark circles yes but not only! Indeed its high coverage can also help you camouflage your little unwanted roommates, pimples. However, like foundation, coverage is a choice and a preference, generally the creamier it is (like the concealer in step 2) the more coverage it has.

In particular, it is part of a known method: contouring, which consists of sculpting your features to give you the face shape you want in this case  take on a slightly lighter shade. For an application in accordance with this last technique refer to step 6.

 

The concealer can be applied with the pointed side of the sponge or with a preferably flat brush.

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  • Sephora collection “Perfecting Concealer Brush N°20”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau-anticernes-perfecteur-n%C2%B020-263103.html

Purchasable at Sephora at the price of 12€ 99

5. Powder (if liquid products already applied)

 

It is used to mattify and fix. There are tinted or translucent ones (although they appear white in the pot, it's a mass effect). A detail to know is that if they are not HD they can stand out on the photos. In addition, there are two types of powder: compacts and loose powder.

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  • Kvd vegan beauty “lock it blotting power” (heavy rendering)

https://www.sephora.fr/p/lock-it-blotting-powder-P3463011.html

Available at Sephora for €31

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  • By terry “hialuronic Hydra-powder” (high coverage but with a natural finish)

https://www.sephora.fr/p/hyaluronic-hydra%E2%80%91powder---poudre-libre-matifiante-255915.html

purchasable at sephora at the price of 49,90€

They are used in a technique called baking and which consists of pressing the powder in strategic areas of the contouring where light is added. This will intensify the latter but will also smooth your pores leave the powder on for 5 to 10 minutes then remove the excess with a soft brush

 

Powders are applied with a puff or a sponge for high coverage.

On the other hand, for a more natural finish, we recommend a very flexible brush.

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  • Zoeva “106 powder”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/106-powder---pinceau-poudre-342332.html

buyable at sephora at the price of 16€

6. Contouring and tanning

 

Same category but not the same product, far from it. The difference is not funny: the bronzer gives a tanned effect, and a healthy glow. Contouring bears the name of the make-up method of which it is a mainstay product, it is there to accentuate your features, hollow out your cheeks. To be wrong between the two could be a real mistake! They do not apply to the same places since they do not have the same utility. The rather orange bronzer (in keeping with a natural tan) is applied to the high points of your face, quite logical knowing that they are the ones who tan the fastest.

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  • Benefit cosmetics “Hoola” (several shades therefore suitable for several skin tones)

https://www.sephora.fr/p/hoola---poudre-soleil-P2551.html

Available at Sephora for €38

  On the other hand, the contouring is a cold brown that imitates a shadow, thus creating depth. It is therefore placed in the hollow areas that we want to intensify. It is quite rare to find real contouring powder but this is in no way an excuse to use a bronzer instead, believe me on my word you can see the difference! 

Despite everything, you can use certain foundations or concealers by choosing a darker but above all cold shade!

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  • Fenty beauty “match Stix Matte Skinstick” Amber

https://www.sephora.fr/p/match-stix-matte-skinstick---fond-de-teint-stick-multifonction-P3079032.html

Can be purchased at Sephora for €25

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  • KVD Beauty “shade light powder contour palette refill pan” Taupe

https://www.kvdveganbeauty.com/face/contour/shade-light-powder-contour-palette-refill-pan/20018.html?dwvar_20018_color=2123

Can be purchased in a palette or in a pan (the eyeshadow without packaging)  at KVD Beauty for $16 for the pan

https://www.sephora.fr/p/shade-light-creme-contour-recharge-413059.html

Or some shades in the pan and also in the palette at   Sephora at the price of €15 50  for the pan

I chose to show you this product especially so that you can see the difference in shade. 

Here is a diagram that will help you to place your contouring according to your face shape:

Sans titre.png

https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/215680269645592968/sent/invite_code=0831ec890d1b4cb3969f26c11161cc8d&sender=215680407063027472&sfo=1

And here is a site which, with your face measurements, defines what type of face shape you belong to and gives you in particular little advice related to the shape of your face:   https://www. oh-gaby.com/calculate-the-shape-of-my-face/

Why the same category? In addition to highlighting the difference between the two products, it is rather inadvisable to apply both in the same make-up, as this could overload the latter.

 

For contouring There are several types of brushes but most of them are bevelled to better fit the shape of the jaw, and flexible enough to use powder.

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  • Sephora "blush brush 04" collection

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau-blush-04---pinceau-teint-vegan*-441817.html

Purchasable at Sephora at the price of 12€ 99

There are also straight, very rigid ones which are more used for creamy products.

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  • Zoeva “109 luxury face paint”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/109-luxe-face-paint---pinceau-visage-contouring-342334.html

Available at Sephora for €16

When tanning you can use this type of brush

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  • Fenty beauty “sculpting bronzer brush

https://www.sephora.fr/p/sculpting-bronzer-brush---pinceau-contouring-469348.html

Available at Sephora for €35

7. Blush 

 

The blush is mainly applied to the cheekbones (see above) in order to give the impression of “blushing with shyness”. There are peaches, candy pinks and even reds that will be more suitable for matte skin.

 

 

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  • Sephora “Colorful blush metal” collection

https://www.sephora.fr/p/colorful-blush-metal---fard-a-joues-P10010624.html

Buyable on Sephora at the price of 11€ 99

Some must apply before step 5

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  • Milk makeup “Lip + Cheek Mini”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/lip-et-cheek-mini---stick-levres-et-joues-P3794015.html

Available on Sephora for €14 

And others to apply even before step 3 

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  • Benefit Cosmetics “Benetint Mini”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/benetint-mini---blush-liquide-joues-et-levres-P2696010.html

Can be purchased at Sephora for €14.

It is generally applied with a fairly flexible and round brush so as not to mark too much so as not to look like a clown

Capture d’écran 2022-11-08 à 15.55.56.png
  • Make Up forever “  brush #156

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau--156---pinceau-blush-262109.html

Available at Sephora for €39

There are also a lot of beveled ones like those of contouring, it works just as well.

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  • Sephora "blush brush 04" collection

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau-blush-04---pinceau-teint-vegan*-441817.html

Available at Sephora for €12.99

8. Highlighter 

 

This product, as its name suggests, aims to make you shine like a star. It is mainly applied to your cheekbones going up slightly but can also be applied to the highlights (tip of the nose, Cupid's bow).

There are all colors but they are not all suitable for everyone. Indeed, taking a highlighter that is too dark will mark a dark trace in a place that you are supposed to illuminate. For example, everything that will be very golden is often too dark for fair skin.

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  • Huda Beauty “3d palette highlighter” (several shades)

https://www.sephora.fr/p/3d-highlighter-palette---palette-d-enlumineurs-P3017002.html

Available at Sephora for €44

Just like blush, some highlighter can be applied before step 5 or even before step 3

Capture d’écran 2022-11-07 à 23.48.22.png
  • Fenty Beauty Match Stix Shimmer Skinstick

​Sold for €26.00 at the link that can be opened by clicking on the photo or the title of the product

or even before step 3

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  • Benefit cosmetics “high beam”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/high-beam---liquid-illuminator-P2521.html

Purchasable at Sephora for 30€50

To apply the powder highlighter there are mainly two brushes:

A fan that will have a very natural look

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  • Make up forever  brush #120

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau--120---pinceau-poudre-eventail-264316.html

Available at Sephora for €31

And a conical princeau which will have a much busier rendering

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  • Sephora collection “  PRO Highlighter Contouring Brush #80”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/pinceau-pro-enlumineur-contouring--80-317903.html

Available at Sephora for €19.99

9. Setting Spray

 

Finally the last step of the make-up (to be done once the steps for the eyes and the complexion are finished)

 

The spray is sprayed all over the face and ensures your make-up is resistant to any test. Mac offers something for everyone: matte, glittery, luminous and fruity. 

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  • MAC cosmetics “PREP + PRIME FIX+ (SHIMMER)”

https://www.maccosmetics.fr/product/27408/57613/produits/franchises/prep-prime-fix/prep-prime-fix-shimmer#!/shade/Goldlite

Purchasable at Mac cosmetics at the price of 23€

or the essential

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  • Urban decay “All nighter setting spray”

https://www.sephora.fr/p/all-nighter---spray-fixateur-de-maquillage-372607.html

Available at Sephora for €32

You can speed up the drying with a fan or a mini fan.

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